In a documentary on Raf Simons’ debut at Dior, the then newly-appointed creative director consistently peppers one word throughout the 89-minute runtime: sublime. It’s been over a decade and it strangely haunts me to this day. Maybe it’s a lack of vocabulary (man’s a designer, not a wordsmith), but it’s still an effective descriptor nonetheless.
Tasting Bowmore’s latest collection set it echoing off in my head again. In 12, 15 and 18-year old expressions, it’s easy to underestimate the trio; especially if you’re heavy-handed on the years of maturation. It is still the oldest Islay distillery we’re talking about. Home to the legendary No. 1 vault, the only warehouse below sea level (which we’re told does wonders for angel share).
Bowmore’s intention to harness hand-selected Oloroso and Pedro Ximénez sherry casks centres around liminality. When crossed with other Speyside labels that we shalt not name, the fortified wine’s sweet notes don’t hide within the whisky. To match a smoky single malt scotch however, it’s pretty logical to not go the overt route.
Now that you’re sufficiently curious about how that translates, let’s get into it.
The youngest is in truth more of a 13-Year Old, but we won’t dive into the technicalities. It’s primarily aged in ex-Bourbon, so the hint of sherry is shy in the oily profile. It leans to tropical fruits on the palate, and appears in a radiant vermilion.
The middle child is unabashed about seeking attention. Embodying a progressively darker hue, the 15-Year Old oddly reminds of meat in robust aromas of spice, underscored with darker layers of wood.
The only one culminating in Pedro Ximenez sherry casks of the lot, the 18-year old is—no avoiding this word in the liquor world—complex. Unapologetically peaty, it reveals a bittersweet zest on the tongue, followed by a cocoa richness towards its finish. It’s a subdued take on sherry oak for some, but a quietly pronounced one for others.
Head to 67 Pall Mall Singapore for a personal encounter, as it stands as Flight of the Month. Besides the taster paired with seasonal bites, full bottles are also ready for purchase at the club.
The Sherry Oak Cask Series is available on the Suntory Global Spirits LazMall store from SGD120
This article was first seen on ESQUIRE SG.
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