
At a Glance: RV Systems and Freezing Temps
Freezing temperatures can cause serious damage to your RV if you’re not prepared. Whether you plan to store your rig or camp through the winter, taking time to prep your plumbing, batteries, furnace, propane, and insulation will help you avoid costly issues. From draining water lines and using antifreeze to adding skirting, tank heaters, and dehumidifiers, winter RV readiness takes a bit of work but pays off in comfort and peace of mind.
Winter is just ahead, and that means freezing temps. For some, this also means packing up the RV and putting it into storage. But for my family, it means staying in year-round campgrounds and finding some cold-weather fun. No matter which thing you plan on doing, you will need to prep your RV systems for the freezing temps.Â
We’ve overnighted many times at below freezing temps. We supplement the furnace with a space heater but still allow the furnace to run to keep the basement warm. Obviously we only overnight where electricity is available. We can stay comfortably warm down to the upper teens F. — MtCamper on iRV2 Forum.
Not sure how to get your rig ready for the winter weather? Here are the steps I take to make sure our RV is ready to go.Â
Plumbing and Water Systems
Frozen plumbing is the single most common and expensive RV winter failure. Believe me, I’ve dealt with the effects, and it wasn’t a fun time. The good news? You can totally avoid a frozen water system. Are you …
Storing Your Rig?
- Disconnect from city water and drain the system completely by opening all faucets (hot and cold), the freshwater tank drain, all low-point drains, and the water heater drain. I let gravity do the work and that gets the job done just fine.Â
- Once the water is out of the system, bypass the water heater using a bypass kit (usually installed at the factory). Run RV-specific antifreeze through all faucets, the shower, the outdoor shower, and the toilet until pink antifreeze appears at each faucet. Also pour some into the drains and the toilet drain.Â
Camping in Your RV?
- We skirt our RV to trap warmer ground air under the coach and reduce wind chill under tanks and pipes.
- Keeping the fresh tank full and installing tank heaters can also help, as can heat tape on the water hose. I also wrap the sewer hose with foam and run the water heater continuously.Â
- Consider keeping a small continuous heat source near key components. A thermostatically controlled electric heater inside a skirted underbelly or a camper-rated tank heater is extremely effective.Â
- Lastly, empty waste tanks when temperatures are above freezing so slush and solids don’t harden in pipes.Â
Batteries
Cold robs batteries of capacity and can permanently damage some battery chemistries if they freeze. Because of this, it is important to take steps to protect your RV batteries.Â
Lead-Acid Batteries (Flooded/AGM/Gel)Â
If you have lead-acid batteries in your RV, keep them charged. A fully charged lead-acid battery is much less likely to freeze than a discharged one. Use a quality multi-stage charger or a smart maintainer to maintain a charge throughout the winter if the coach will be stored.
Planning to store your RV for months at a time? You might consider removing the batteries and storing them in a warm place. Otherwise, insulate the battery box and use a battery heater pad or wrap.Â
Lithium Batteries (LiFePOâ‚„ and similar)
We have lithium batteries in our rig. These behave differently. Most manufacturers prohibit charging below freezing (0°C/32°F) and recommend either heated battery boxes or moving batteries indoors for extended cold. We rarely store our RV in the cold, but when we do, I make sure to move the batteries into a warm spot indoors.Â
Furnace, Propane, Carbon Monoxide, and Venting
I always make sure to service the RV furnace before the season. This includes cleaning the burner and checking the vents and flues. Remember, a well-tuned furnace is safer and more efficient.
When I test the furnace, I also check to make sure the propane tanks are full and that regulators are in good condition. Cold can reduce pressure from tanks, so I like to keep them topped up. We also use a twin-tank setup so our propane lasts longer.Â
Finally, I use this opportunity to test the CO, propane, and smoke detectors and replace the batteries as needed. Since cold weather increases our use of combustion appliances, I feel like late fall is a good time to make these checks.Â
Insulation and Seals
Of course, you’ll also want to make sure you stay warm and comfortable inside your rig. Fortunately, in our years of RVing, we have found ways to do this and we are always nice and cozy during the winter months.Â
To start with, I recommend that you check door and window seals and weather stripping for cracking and damage, and re-caulk or replace worn seals to prevent drafts and moisture intrusion. Wind-driven cold will sneak in through small gaps, so inspect everything carefully.
I’ve found that our RV windows let in a lot of cold. Thermal window coverings and insulating curtains reduce this heat loss through glass. I like to use Reflectix in addition to the thermal window coverings to add another layer of protection from the cold.Â
Condensation Control
I was surprised by how much condensation collected in our RV our first winter on the road. The air is full of moisture and it collects on the windows and walls, dripping to the floor and causing mold, mildew, and other issues. We have also had issues with moisture gathering under the mattresses.Â
To combat this, we use DampRid moisture absorber in the cabinets and closets, and a small dehumidifier that runs day and night. I also make sure to open the vent anytime I’m cooking or showering in the rig to release steam outdoors.Â
Exterior Components and Moving Parts
Snow and ice can damage exterior components of an RV, especially moving parts. Honestly, I generally don’t spend enough time in snowy places for this to become a problem. But I know if we do, experience has taught us the following:
- Retract awnings during heavy snow or ice to avoid collapse.Â
- Lubricate slide rails and check seals; cold can make seals brittle. Use RV-approved lubricants at recommended temperatures.
- Keep jacks free of ice and exercise them to prevent freezing.Â
Tires
Most of us know that tire pressure drops in cold weather. You’ll want to check and maintain the correct PSI if you plan to move the RV at all. If the RV will be sitting for long periods, consider using tire covers and moving the RV from time to time to prevent flat spots.Â
Fuel and Generator
Gasoline in the RV tank will go bad if it’s left to sit for too long. Meanwhile, diesel fuel has a tendency to gel. You can avoid these problems by adding fuel stabilizer to gasoline and anti-gel to diesel. It also helps to keep diesel tanks as full as possible to reduce condensation.Â
If you have a generator, be sure to add fuel stabilizer or anti-gel to that fuel source as well, and run the unit monthly during storage and exercise it under load so it stays healthy. I also like to keep generator oil and filters fresh heading into winter.
I do add an anti gel to the fuel. We plan a departure south sometime in the Jan–Mar timeframe. Diesel will start to gel in cold temperatures, making starting a challenge. Since I’m not sure how cold it will be when we’re ready to depart, I add the anti gel to preclude that challenge. IF you’re not planning a cold temperature use, I wouldn’t think the anti gel would be necessary. Diesel fuel, IMHO, is adequately stable for a 3–4 month storage that a stabilizer isn’t necessary. — 777 Driver on iRV2 Forum.
Emergency Supplies and Safety Kits
Since we live in our RV full time, occasional cold-weather travel and camping is inevitable. Anytime we plan to be in cold weather, I make sure to pack the following items for safety:
- Extra potable water and non-toxic antifreeze for emergency lines.Â
- A quality space heater rated for indoor RV use (and CO monitor).
- Heat tape, pipe insulation, and spare hose clamps/repair parts.
- Tools, funnel, winter-grade fuel additives, and tow/cell-signal plan.
- Warm clothing, sleeping bags rated for cold, and a shovel/ice scraper.
When to Winterize
Not sure when to start winterizing your rig? I like to get started about a month before the first freeze.Â
- 4–6 weeks before freeze: Service furnace, test detectors, examine seals, and schedule battery service.Â
- 2–3 weeks before: Drain water heater, install bypass, buy RV antifreeze, and gather insulation/skirting materials.Â
- 1 week before: Charge and test batteries, test heater operation, install skirting, and run antifreeze through lines if storing.
- Just before the first hard freeze: Verify tank heaters and heat tape operation; top off propane and fuel.
Troubleshooting Cold-Weather Problems
Sometimes all the prep work in the world can’t prevent issues from cropping up. Some of the most common cold weather issues are listed below as well as the best solutions to each. I’ve actually experienced every one of these things at one time or another, so as you’re solving the problem, know that you’re not alone.Â
| Problem | Solution |
| Frozen faucet or line | Apply hair dryer or warm towels to exposed pipe; open faucet to relieve pressure; for exterior lines, use heater or heat tape. |
| Battery failing to hold a charge | Move battery to warmer area; fully recharge and retest. Lead-acid may recover; consult manufacturer for lithium. |
| Frozen holding tanks | Heat tank or use tank heaters to thaw. Avoid dumping while frozen. Use skirting and heating to prevent freezing. |
Winter RV prep might seem like a big job, but it’s worth every effort to keep your rig safe and comfortable. Whether you’re storing your RV or chasing snowy adventures, a little planning now will save you time, money, and frustration later. With the right steps, you can stay warm, avoid damage, and make the most of the season, wherever the road takes you.
FAQs on RV Systems and Freezing Temps
Yes, even if you’re camping in cold weather, you should take precautions. This includes insulating pipes, using heated hoses or heat tape, skirting your RV, and keeping tanks and key systems warm with heaters or warm air circulation. You don’t need antifreeze in the lines if you’re actively using the water system, but you must prevent freezing.
No. Only use RV-specific antifreeze that is non-toxic and safe for freshwater systems. Never use automotive antifreeze, as it’s toxic and not meant for any part of your RV’s plumbing.
Yes, you can use compressed air to blow out the water lines. Attach a blowout plug to the city water inlet, set pressure to 30–40 PSI, and open all faucets and drains to clear the lines. Many RVers still add a bit of antifreeze to drains and P-traps for extra protection.
